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Anonimo Watches |
Florentine horological tradition? Watchmaking for the Italian military? Starting to sound familiar? It might to a whole lot of people interested in another brand also rooted in Florence, Italy, but connoisseurs know that outside of these, there are very few similarities between these two brands known for the very large dimensions of their watches. One may have kicked off a trend with its timepieces, practically achieving cult status, but the other is not so far behind - and doing it in its own way. A different way, however intertwined the roots may be.
The first was Panerai, which in 1993 released its first modern watch, becoming a hot insider tip for the trendy connoisseur. It wasn't long until 1997 when it was taken over by the Vendome group (now Richemont) and the company's manufacture was moved to Switzerland, leaving a group of creative Italian watchmakers, case makers, and designers on the Swiss-Italian border without daily occupation.
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The same year, designer and entrepreneur Federico Massacesi founded the other enterprise, using this veteran team of horological specialists, to continue manufacturing watches in tasteful Florentine tradition. He named his brand Anonimo, Italian for anonymous, to emphasize the fact that these watches are about the individual wearing them - not about the watches as an end in themselves.
Massacesi's distinct design and demands on
quality for Anonimo are based on two elements: the unique case production and the patented Kodiak strap. The case, made of AISI 316L surgical stainless steel is manufactured in a much different way than most cases. It is "scooped out" on a lathe and turned from the inside, rather than stamped as conventional cases are, to prevent the case from experiencing too much stress. Massacesi's firm belief is that when metal is struck, it largely restructures the molecules, making the metal brittle. The Anonimo style of manufacture results in a case with a more organic feel to it, almost like salt water hitting rocks. The smooth, satinated case sides do not scratch as easily as conventional steel, and they have a truly individualistic appearance.
The Kodiak process is equally as interesting. This strap originally chosen by Panerai is created by a patented process that allows leather to be continuously immersed in fresh or sea water for up to twenty-four hours. No wonder, then, that Panerai was interested. Anonimo SpA now holds the sole patent to the Kodiak process, one that basically makes leather water-resistant. This is
an advantage not only in the water, but also in hot, tropical climates where conventional leather is almost uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time - not to mention what it generally looks like after being subjected to water or moist air for long periods of time. The Kodiak strap, in comparison, looks fresh as a daisy.
Anonimo's first watch, the Millimetri, was released in 1998 to great critical acclaim from watch buyers and professional divers alike in Italy. A cooperation with one of the most important deep-sea diving industrial companies in the world, eN.S. Cooperativa Nazionale Subacquei, allows the Italian brand to have its watches tested first-hand by professionals under real conditions.
Another patent was awarded to Anonimo for its second watch, the Militare. Its crown vanishing locking device makes the watch even more water-resistant by giving the crown traditionally the weak point of any watch under water - more stability and security.
Anonimo, with its annual production of about 4,000 watches, successfully entered the American market a few years ago when Scott Moskovitz, a brand-new watch fan, acquired shares in the factory. Now positioned at fifty of America's high-end retail shops, the brand is often proudly located next to its countryman, Panerai. But no worries, these watches can truly stand up to any scrutiny that dyed-in-the-wool Paneristi can dish out.
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Anonimo Watches Firenze USA
85 Hazel Road
Berkeley, CA 94705
Tel: 5106490450
Fax: 5106490460
www.anonimousa.com
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